Stuff to eat. Mostly around St. Louis.
iNDO: Thai Street Food
Restaurants are not doing well.
I imagine most of you know this already, but in case you don’t: they aren’t. No matter what they’re telling you when you pick up or what you’re seeing on social media, know that they’re all suffering. Some more than others. Many are doing “okay” at best. With little support or guidance from the government and a shift to primarily doing curbside takeout, it’s not much of a surprise.
I’ve been particularly interested in restaurants that have pivoted their concepts. You can’t expect diners to drop $100+ per person on a takeout tasting menu, nor can you expect any chef to want to do that. You want to eat iNDO’s omakase out of a plastic container just as much as Nick Bognar wants to serve it to you.
The most logical pivot for many of the higher end restaurants is to workshop a more casual concept. Something they’ve envisioned for restaurant #2 or always wanted to try. SHIFT with their sandwiches. Elmwood with their pizzas. And now iNDO with their Thai street food.
I miss iNDO, but damn, I’ll miss their Thai street food (so, Nick, you better open that restaurant ASAP)—even with us living in a golden age of Thai food in St. Louis (Chao Baan, Fork & Stix, redacted upcoming Thai restaurant).
Since I had the chance to try the whole menu and liked all of it, I figured it’s worth talking about the whole thing.
Nick's no dummy, so you’ll instantly recognize a few iNDO classics have made the street food cut. The sweet and tangy cabbage salad with candied peanuts and tamarind dressing has made the cut as-is, because it’s perfect. Lamb ribs have been replaced by baby back pork ribs in the palm sugar ribs set. I was concerned they wouldn’t be as fall-apart-tender and delicious as the lamb ribs, and that would require me to break each of Nick’s fingers, but lucky for both of us, they were just as good. Last but certainly not least is a dish that combines two of Spencer’s favorites: the braised short ribs and the smoky, rich khao soi soup.
I was debating how to go about ordering my talking points, but it’s easiest to just go straight down the menu. Let’s go.
Chicken satay skewers: I love satay. I love meat on a stick. I especially love the red curry coconut peanut sauce you get for dipping these. I’d recommend this dish if it was just a bowl of that, TBH.
Papaya salad: A Thai classic, mixing all the things you love into one dish. It’s sweet, crunchy, fresh, a bit tart, and it’s got a special little somethin’ from the candied shrimp.
Chicken wings: One of my favorites FOR SURE. After they’re marinated, they’re dredged in cornstarch and fried twice, insuring they’re extra crispy and extra delicious. They’re topped with some crispy garlic and Nick’s top secret spice mix (there’s salt, pepper, and sugar involved) and served with some spicy, herby naam jim. I will not share these with you.
Poke: It’s not like Nick could completely avoid working with raw fish. His take on poke is a bit more Thailand than Hawaii, as you’d expect, but damn it was good.
Vegetarian cold noodles: My girlfriend tried these before I did and immediately became Gollum. I was given one (measly) bite, but considering how she devoured them while saying, “my precious, my precious”, I think it’s safe to say they’re a solid choice.
Crab & shrimp fried rice: Just what you expect, but probably better. Dried shrimp give it that Thai funk you crave.
Spicy Thai sausage (Sai Oua): My favorite of all the dishes, I think. A fairly traditional herb-packed sai oua sausage served with the same naam jim as the wings.
Fried sweet bananas: I mean…tempura fried bananas topped with condensed milk and toasted coconut.
Cabbage Salad | onion straws, candied peanuts, tamarind dressing
Chicken Satay | coconut peanut sauce, cucumber salad
Chicken Wings | crispy garlic, naam jim
Crab & Shrimp Fried Rice: blue crab, candied shrimp, egg, scallions
Papaya Salad | avocado, candied shrimp, candied peanuts, tomatoes
Poke | daily fresh fish, sweet soy, crispy chips
Thai Sausage (Sai Oua) | sticky rice, spicy thai chili sauce, fried shallots
Vegetarian Cold Noodles | crispy shallots, ground peanuts, sweet soy
Fried Sweet Bananas | condensed milk, toasted coconut
Louie
You’re probably here for one of two reasons: you love louie and you want to bask in its glory, or someone told you louie was amazing and you don’t trust them. But you can trust me.
I’ve never believed there’s such a thing as a perfect restaurant, but damn if Louie doesn’t make me wonder if I’m wrong. Matt McGuire, a veteran of the restaurant world, is one of the most well-spoken, intelligent, generous, and focused people I’ve ever had the pleasure of knowing, and if you’ve spent any time at all talking to him, I’m sure you agree. (If you haven’t, pop over to the pizza oven & charcuterie station and say hi/bye next time you’re in). The restaurant is a reflection of him—it’s classic and modern, warm and welcoming.
I only have good things to say about Louie. I love it all. I love the staff, I love the cooks, I love the food. It works for a quick bite and a beer as well as it works for a celebratory meal. You can for something light and healthy(ish) or ruin your body with the Roman gnoccho, pastas, enormous pork chop, and cocktails. I prefer the latter.
The menu doesn’t change often, but there are usually a few nightly specials—especially on the pasta front. Matt and his executive chef, Sean Turner, have set the menu up where everything appears to be very simple, but the reality is, few things are. The simplest things are the hardest, after all.
If you stop reading right here, know that you must order the chicken and the ice cream sandwich.
Let’s walk through my favorite items on the menu. Below the write ups, you’ll find photos
Small plates
The small plates section of the menu is where i spend most of my calories, for reasons that are about to become very obvious.
White bean hummus
mint, hearth bread
Simple—but with the addition of the pop of mint and drizzle of high quality olive oil, perfection.
Charred Eggplant Dip
hearth bread, season vegetables
The perfect blend of charred eggplant and olive oil—it doesn’t taste overly smoky, nor is the eggplant flavor very strong (shout out to the eggplant haters). Don’t think of it as baba ganoush, though—it’s closer to a hummus. Also, anything served with their wood-fired hearth pita bread is going to taste good.
Broccolini
calabrian vinaigrette
Charred broccolini topped with a slightly spicy, kinda funky vinaigrette. This photo is obviously not of the finished product, but I ate it before I could take a shot last time. Whoops.
Cauliflower Fritto
mint aioli
Everyone knows that the best vegetables are fried and dipped in aioli.
Prosciutto di parma
Parmigiano Reggiano DOP Vacche Rosse
There are three things on the plate: prosciutto, cheese, and olive oil. Each is amazing on its own. combined—unbeatable. Especially when eaten on a warm piece of hearth bread. Bury me in this prosciutto.
entrees
salsiccia pizza
roasted fennel, sausage, hot cherry peppers, mozzarella
Okay, this is not a picture of their salsiccia pizza, but a special they did on their one year anniversary. Louie is really dark at night, and the spicy sausage pizza is really good, and…I just forgot to take pictures of it, repeatedly.
Filled pasta
This version: sweet potato ravioli, brown butter, almond, smoked ricotta
There’s usually at least one filled pasta special. Get it. Whether it’s sweet potato with smoked ricotta salata, summer sweet corn with tomatoes, or prosciutto en brodo, you won’t regret it. Unless you have Celiac disease.
Roman gnocco
pork ragu, bechamel, pecorino
The gnocco isn’t my favorite dish (controversial!), but it seems to be everyone else’s. One friend described it as getting a hug from your grandma. It’s heavy, it’s decadent and you’re going to eat way too much of it.
polenta & Roasted Mushrooms
If I’m going to eat until I hurt myself, I’m going with the polenta and mushrooms over the gnocco (once again, that’s just me). It’s another simple but perfect dish, except if you are lactose intolerant like this guy.
Grilled strip steak
crispy potatoes, salsa verde
It’s just a good steak, man. Those potatoes are crunchy AF.
pork chop
shishitos, chermoula
Some have said this is the best pork chop they’ve ever had, and I can’t really argue with that. Also, it’s huge.
Roast chicken
rapini, chicken jus
I’m dedicating an entire post to this chicken soon. It puts all other chickens to shame. I know chicken sounds boring, but you need to try it.
If you don’t like it, you don’t deserve to be eating here.
Dessert
ice cream sandwich
Oh, great, not only is Louie’s entire savory menu off the fucking charts, but they’ve also somehow made the greatest ice cream sandwich I’ve ever had. I don’t even take Lactaid when I eat this—it’s worth the discomfort. Frozen chocolate mousse is sandwiched between two cocoa nib macarons, served with Dragees cocoa nibs and a chocolate coulis.
SAVE ROOM FOR THIS.
Dave and Tony's
With my newfound freedom, I now have the time to go all over St. Louis at lunch time - with that, I'll be posting some shorter lunch pieces. To kick things off, I visited Dave & Tony's Premium Burger Joint in Creve Coeur. As the name implies, burgers are their thing: you can either pick one of their pre-designed burgers, or fill out a sheet at the counter for a custom one. The range of options is hefty. You could craft a healthy salad with grilled chicken and a garden's worth of veggies, or you could get a extra large steakburger on a pretzel bun with cheese, onion rings, a fried egg, bacon, french fries, and steak butter. I keep meaning to ask them what the most ultimate (read: fattening) burger someone has ordered is - I bet I'd be impressed, but also disgusted.
The restaurant is family friendly, so it's got something for everyone: soups, hot dogs, chicken fingers, nachos. And since you may be stuck bringing your demon kids with you, take advantage of the beer and wine they have.
I typically get the Asian Salad wrap with grilled chicken, a healthier choice that allows me to go eat The Peacemaker's po'boys. It's mixed greens, sprouts, red onion, carrots, avocado, crispy wontons, and a sesame soy dressing. Get the dressing on the side if you don't enjoy a soggy wrap.
Their burgers are damn good for $6.99, especially considering they make pretty much everything in-house. This monstrosity below was the daily special, the Brewhouse Burger. A juicy medium burger topped with crispy onion, smokey bacon, jalapenos, stout mustard, and a cheddar spread, all on a pretzel roll. Eating that meant at least one less day in my life, I think, but it was worth it.
Asian Salad Wrap at Dave & Tony's
Burger at Dave & Tony's
Dave & Tony's is a solid option for a quick meal that won't break the bank, nor leave you disappointed. The business crowd crushes the restaurant during weekday lunches, but week nights and weekends are typically a good choice for a meal with the whole family.