Stuff to eat. Mostly around St. Louis.
Cookbook Picks: Winter 2016
We are living in a digital world, and I am a digital girl—except when it comes to cookbooks. I'm a cookbook collector (and possibly a burgeoning hoarder). Last winter, I put up a list of 5 cookbooks I'd used the most in 2015, but seeing as my collection is growing at a rapid pace, I'm going to start posting quarterly recommendations. Unless I get bored and decide not to. No promises. I present to you: the Winter 2016 collection.
Plenty: Vibrant Vegetable Recipes
Yotam Ottolenghi
About 5 years ago, I went on a trip with my college friends to New Orleans. When I got home and they started posting pictures from the trip, I came to the realization that I was not the svelte panther I thought I was. I looked more like late 1970s Elvis Presley than 1950's Elvis. I went to a dietician who, in short, told me to stop eating garbage and start eating more vegetables.
But vegetables suck, I thought to myself. Ottolenghi's Plenty (and its follow up, Plenty More) changed the vegetable game for me. With these two books, I've become the vegetable master. I am the inspiration behind L' Arpége and Blue Hill.
Amazon link
Zahav: A World of Israeli Cooking
Michael Solomonovand Steven Cook
I'm Jewish, but I'm not a cool Israeli Jew. I'm not even a tan Sephardic Jew. I'm just a boring ol' Ashkenazi Jew. My Russian family recipes all involve beets, potatoes, and cabbage.
I bought the Zahav cookbook partially because it won a James Beard award for Best Cookbook, but mostly so I could cook Israeli food and pretend I was the Zohan. It worked. I blew everyone away at our Thanksgiving dinner with Solomonov's braised lamb shoulder with pomegranate molasses and chickpeas. Every single dish I've made so far has been a winner. I give this book 5/5 yarmulkes.
Amazon link
Greek
George Calombaris
Most Americans won't know who George Calombaris is, which is a shame. He's a good natured, extremely talented Greek-Australian chef from Down Under, and also the co-host of Masterchef Australia. Unlike its American and Canadian relatives, MC: 'stralia is not a giant stinking heap of bullshit drama. It's a great show.
Calombaris' new cookbook, Greek, isn't even being sold in the US. I don't know why. It's an incredible book full of modern—yet home cook friendly—Greek recipes. The photos are stunning, the writing is great, and the recipes work. It's a lot like this blog.
It keeps popping up at the Amazon link below for a variety of prices. I got it for $28, but now it's at $81. Keep your eyes peeled. If I find it somewhere cheaper, I'll let you know.
Amazon link
Singapore Food
Wendy Hutton
The best Singaporean cookbook I've found. Originally published in the 1989, this cookbook has been my link back to the food I love so much. For many of the recipes, Hutton went to the hawker stalls or restaurants and straight up asked how they made their signature dishes. If you're at all interested in the real flavors of Singapore, get this. Alternatively, you can get The Little Singapore Cookbook, which is kind of like a "best of" from the larger book.
Chili crab will change your life.
Amazon link: Singapore Food or The Little Singapore Cookbook
Thai Street Food
David Thompson
This book is huge, just like your mom. If you're into coffee table books, this might as well be one with its enormous, bright street photography from all around Thailand. The shots of the food are equally beautiful. Thompson doesn't dumb down or simplify the recipes either: if you want to make authentic Thai food, you're going to need to buy a lot of ingredients. Make it a team effort. Get the kids chopping lemongrass.
The results are worth the effort.
Amazon link
Aged Egg Nog
Growing up in a pseudo-Kosher, moderately Jewish household, I missed out on all the fun parts of Christmas: the gifts, the ham, the egg nog. I’d sit and spin my dreidel (maybe a euphemism), waiting to hear from all my Jesus loving friends.
My first time tasting egg nog came when I was in 8th grade. I was at a friend’s house the day after Christmas, getting ready to play hour upon hour of Halo whatever when his mom brought us each a big glass of egg nog. My excitement was palpable. I took a big swig—disgusting. Utterly disgusting. Egg nog was dead to me. I’ll stick to Manischewitz, thank you very much.
It wasn’t until a couple weeks ago when Randolfi’s [RIP] head barman, Jeffrey Moll, invited me over to try his aged egg nog. Very intriguing, Jeffrey. His eggnog follows the style of George P. Hunt, sans the party—unless you pay more.
The approach to this nog is to start it on the weekend that proceeds Thanksgiving. In the four weeks that follow, it mellows out a little and thickens up. I have obviously screwed that up already, seeing as it’s December 7th, but I’m sure it’ll be good by Christmas. OR you can make it now and serve it next year—because of its alcohol content, it’s very stable so long as its refrigerated.
YIELD: 1 BATCH
INGREDIENTS
12 egg yolks
2c sugar
8oz half & half
32oz whole milk
32oz Four Roses Single-Barrel (or Buffalo Trace) bourbon whiskey
8oz Camus VS cognac
4oz El Dorado 12 year rum
salt (a couple pinches)
METHOD
Start by whisking together the yolks and sugar until the sugar dissolves. The mixture should be creamy. This will take ten minutes or so. Drink some bourbon while whisking to get in the mood.
Once ready, work in all the dairy and salt.
Finally, add all alcohol.
Pour the final product back into empty bottles and place in refrigerator for 3-4 weeks, shaking every couple of days. It will be ready by Christmas.
Don’t forget to top with freshly grated nutmeg!
5 Cookbook Necessities
Cookbooks are an easy gift for the holidays, but which ones to get? The onslaught of new cookbooks is never ending. My in-depth researched has taught me two things: avoid the new seasonal cookbook from your favorite Food Network 'chef' (it's like the crappy Christmas album bands put out) and stay away from celebrity cookbooks. I don't know why people think that recipes from Smash Mouth, Al Roker, or Kris Jenner are going to be good. They're not. Don't even get them as a 'funny' gift for a friend. They're just going to get thrown into the trash where they belong. You wouldn't buy Mario Batali's guide to tennis, would you?
Instead, you want to go for quality cookbooks. The kind that you'll be able to reference for years and years. Here are my recommendations for 5 great cookbooks that will make great gifts for your friends and family—or, better yet, for you.
The Food Lab: Better Home Cooking Through Science
J. Kenji Lopez-Alt (IG, Twitter)
I would go so far as to say that this book is not only the best cookbook of 2015, but also a modern home cook necessity. Kenji Lopez-Alt is the Managing Culinary Director of Serious Eats, the best food website there is, and the work he put into this 1,000 page epic is nothing short of impressive. He explains the science behind his recipes and techniques, helping the home cook have a better understanding of what makes the food taste great.
If reading all those words is too hard, skip the explanations and just hit the recipes. I guarantee you'll see an increase in cooking compliments. Get this—it's the 21st century's Joy of Cooking.
Amazon, $27
The New Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone
Deborah Madison
I was tired of scouring every cookbook and website for vegetable dishes that weren't just roasted or sauteed with some butter, which led me to Deborah Madison's vegetarian cooking bible. Finally, I could do something interesting with all my CSA veggies! A huge chunk of the 700-page book is separated by vegetable, which makes deciding what to do with that kohlrabi much easier.
The book also includes recipes for a plethora of sauces, dressings, desserts, and more. Just because it's vegetarian doesn't mean it's healthy. Just look at Prince Fielder!
Amazon, $28
Hot and Hot Fish Club
Chris and Idie Hastings with Katherine Cross (IG, Twitter)
This is a must have for anyone looking to impress with fine Southern cooking. Multiple award winner Hot and Hot Fish Club is located in Birmingham, Alabama and owned by the husband and wife team of Chris and Idie Hastings. The book is uniquely separated by month, which results in recipes that are focused on showcasing the best of each season.
This isn't a book for the casual home cook. If you're the kind of person who likes to host dinners that your friends will talk about for weeks, this is for you.
Amazon, $30
Smoke And Pickles
Edward Lee (IG, Twitter)
This book came out in 2013, but I didn't get my hands on it until December 2014, just after a phenomenal meal at chef Ed Lee's Milkwood restaurant. I bought it for one reason: I needed to know how to make his "Black BBQ," an intense mix of Asian (black bean paste, sesame oil) and Southern (bourbon, cola) ingredients that resulted in a thick, spicy BBQ sauce. It has remained one of my secret weapons ever since.
The book is full of great stories and even better recipes, a mix of Asian and Southern food that speaks to me like few other combinations can. His Filipino adobo fried chicken and waffles is incredible, and his Bourbon-and-coke meatloaf has become a family staple.
Amazon, $18
Tacos
Alex Stupak and Jordana Rothman (IG, Twitter)
I wasn't sure that a book solely focused on tacos was going to be worth getting, but boy, I was wrong. Stupak's writing reminds me of my own, so of course I enjoyed that, but his passion for tacos and creativity shine through. The first half the of the book runs through how to properly make corn and flour tortillas (including a version using raw chicken), as well as how to make a ton of salsas, moles, and other sauces.
The second half is taco focused, ranging from classics like carnitas and barbacoa to a cheeseburger taco, a buffalo chicken taco, and a pastrami taco. I'm slowly making my way through it, but everything I've made out of it so far has been incredibly delicious. Plus, Evan Sung's photos are amazing.