Stuff to eat. Mostly around St. Louis.
DavId Utterback: Omakase series
Listen, time is of the essence. We don’t have long.
There’s a man who lives in Omaha (like…Nebraska). His name is David “Yoshitomo” Utterback, and he is the chef/owner of a sushi restaurant called Yoshitomo. It is, by all accounts, fantastic.
Dave and our hometown hero, Nick Bognar (Nippon Tei, iNDO), became BFFs awhile back, as sushi boys do, which lead to a series of dinners here in St. Louis. I posted about them on social, which honestly seemed a little rude—they were done. Completed. Finito. All you could do was double tap and move on with your life.
GOOD NEWS. Chef Utterback is returning to St. Louis to do an omakase takeover at iNDO on July 22nd. There are two seatings—5pm and 8pm. Tickets can be purchased here through Tock. GO NOW. If, somehow, it’s already sold out, I highly recommend commenting below, demanding that Nick kidnap Dave and force him to stay until this city is satisfied.
I was incredibly sick when he was here last, but I am a champ, so I still went, took photos, and ate my food alone in the back of the restaurant before continuing my impersonation of a dying Spencer. That dinner is below and, honestly, it was so good that it’s made me consider going to Omaha just to experience Yoshitomo’s omakase again (especially his super secret foie gras rice—I don’t know what he did, but holy moly). I mean, I haven’t, but I’ve really strongly considered it. I used to go to Omaha for work, and it’s honestly kind of cool. We should all go together sometime.
Crudo
kiwi, leche de tigre
Foie Gras rice
Yoshitomo’s secret recipe
Hirame
shiso, ume, lime, shiro nikiri
Isaki
buri
Akamutsu
Shima Aji
Akami
Chutoro
Otoro
Saba
King Salmon
Iwashi
Yaki Gindara
Hotate
Wagyu
Tamago
Omakase V: Nick Bognar & Chris Bork
This is another one of those posts that really isn’t doing you any good.
I mean, what’s the point in me telling you there was a two night pop up where Nick Bognar of Nippon Tei combined forces with Chris Bork, formerly of VISTA (RIP)? Only 30 or so tickets were sold, so more than likely, you weren’t one of those people. That sucks, man. I think you really would have liked it.
When I posted about it on Instagram and Twitter, a bunch of you messaged me specifically about how you missed Bork, how his food was sooo good, etc. Let me tell you something: no one loves what Bork is doing more than me. He understands, respects, and plays with Asian ingredients and dishes in a way I only dream I could. If I were an obscenely wealthy man, I would quit working and pay him handsomely to teach me everything he knows. And to cook most of my meals. Also, give me hair styling tips. He is my food crush.
That’s not to say Nick Bognar isn’t also one of my favorites, because he is. He’s figuring out how to combine his Thai heritage with his love for Japanese cooking, and when he perfects that, St. Louis won’t know what hit them. The Isaan Hamachi you see below will be his signature dish—as soon as that hits his menu, consider it a must-order. In fact, ask him for the next time you're in. Let’s peer pressure him into feeding us that good stuff.
Anyway, the dinner was the best I’ve had so far in 2019. You should message Bork and Bognar (doesn’t that sound like an Eastern European version of Simon and Garfunkel?) and tell them that you demand more collaboration dinners.
OMakase V
Design work by ForTheWhen
tskune
marinated quail egg, tare, yuzu gel
Kanpachi
Isaan Hamachi
Thai koshi, coconut naam pla, candied garlic, shallots
Foie Gras Torchon
Kumquat, mushroom chip, dashi, pickled shiitake
Shima Aji
Madai Ceviche
Seabream, leche de tigre, lime zest, radish, basil oil
Khao Soi Soup Dumpling
curry leaf nage, cilantro, lime zest
Zuke honmaguro akami nigiri
Laab Tartare
lamb tartare, laab spices, candied pine nuts, rice crackers, thai basil
Fillet of Beef
shrimp head red curry, raw Hokkaido scallop, scallop jerky, black garlic butter
Chutoro
Santa barbara Uni
Coconut & Kaffir Panna Cotta
Kaffir lime, ginger snap soil, basil, coconut vinegar gel, plum
Nick Bognar's Omakase
St. Louis, MO
Finally, quality sushi arrives in St. Louis.
I’ll dedicate a full post to Nippon Tei and Ramen Tei’s revival in the near future, but if you’re somehow unaware: Nick Bognar, the son of Nippon Tei’s owners, returned from some time working outside of St. Louis, namely at the sushi powerhouse Uchiko in Austin, to let everyone know that it is possible to get great sushi in St. Louis.
erRecently, Nick debuted his first omakase dinner—basically ‘chef’s choice’—at Ramen Tei’s 8-person bar. I managed to wrangle a seat at one of the two seatings, mostly thanks to my superior dishwashing abilities. I’ve done a handful of omakases around the world, including one at the way-too-sterile-but-Michelin-starred Shinji by Kanesaka in Singapore. Almost every one I’ve eaten has been almost eerily quiet, almost to the point of it being awkward. I can only stare at a sushi master slicing fish for so long.
Luckily, Nick’s version of the omakase matched his personality: fun, bold, and, most importantly, not strictly Japanese. Bognar’s mom is Thai, and he wove Southeast Asian flavors and techniques throughout. More modern omakases are popping up around the globe, but in a traditional Japanese one like Shinji, you’re just getting the best possible fish with the best sushi rice, and that’s about it. It has its place, but honestly, it can be a boring meal (for a hefty sum) .The hamachi crudo with naam pla, Thai kosho, and candied garlic was the opposite of boring and easily the dish of the night—a night that included A5 Wagyu, two types of uni, and otoro—with a level of complexity that you don’t often see with sashimi. This should become a permanent fixture on the Nippon Tei menu. If it’s not, feel free to harass Nick.
Nick will be hosting guest sushi chef David Yoshitomo of Omaha, Nebraska on October 22nd, and tickets are available for it at https://www.exploretock.com/yoshitomo, then Uchiko’s head sushi chef, Yoni Lang, in November (TBD). You can see the full omakase tasting below.
